Tulip planting technology and management
2020-01-18 12:05:14
First, the growth habits of tulips
The tulip belongs to the perennial herb of the family Liliaceae and has a bulbous conical shape. Cold-resistant and heat-resistant, the bulb can withstand temperatures below -35°C. The growth temperature was 15-18 °C. The optimum temperature for flower bud differentiation was 17-23 °C. When the wings crossed 35 °C, differentiation was inhibited. Tulips like cool, moist, sunny, sheltered environment: grow well in loose fertile sandy loam soil. Tulips have a wide range of soil acidity and can grow normally in a pH range of 6.0 to 7.8. Tulips are bulbs that take a certain amount of time to cool before they bloom. Its flowers are open during the day when the sunshine is strong and closed at night, and the flowers are closed when cloudy.
Second, the cultivation of tulips
1, tulip conventional open cultivation
(1) Soil preparation: Choose sheltered, sunny, loose soil and fertile areas for planting. Tulip bogey heavy soil. Before planting, plow the land 35-40 cm. At the same time, disinfect the soil (using 40% formalin, the method is the same with lily) and apply 2000-3000 kg of organic fertilizer to improve soil. The pH of the soil is between 6.5 and 7.5.
(2) Colonization: Northern China is generally planted from late September to October. Northeast and northwest temperatures dropped earlier. Colonization should be appropriately established in advance. In North China, it may be later. The time for colonization in Beijing is generally in the middle or late October. The colonization is too early, the climate is warm, and the leafy clumps are grown. Overwintering needs to be covered to avoid freezing. The colonization is too late and the rooting is not good, which will affect the growth in the coming year. The planting depth is about 3 to 5cm, that is, there are 3~5cm topsoil on the top of the ball, and the top buds are upright.
(3) Management after planting: Water should be poured before planting to ensure soil moisture during planting. Immediately after planting, watering once again will not only reduce the soil temperature, but also increase the soil moisture and promote the rooting of the tulip bulb base. After the rooting, the bulb base has a strong root system, and can absorb the water and nutrients in the soil to maintain the aboveground leaf stalks. The normal growth. Before winter, you must pour antifreeze water. After the young leaves are unearthed in the coming spring, water should be promptly kept to keep the soil moist. In winter, it is generally not necessary to water, and the remaining time is based on the fact that the soil remains moist. The application of a thin liquid fertilizer to the leaves during the period of rapid growth and early bud emergence can make the flower colorful.
2. Cultivation of Tulips in the Greenhouse at 5°C Promotes Cultivation
Tulip bulbs at 5°C: After harvesting, the tulip bulbs were subjected to high temperature treatment for a period of time, and then treated at 5°C for 8 to 12 weeks. Tulip bulbs treated at 5°C were allowed to bloom in the greenhouse for 45 to 60 days. However, not all tulip bulbs are suitable for 5 °C treatment. Therefore, before ordering bulbs, be sure to check the company catalog.
(1) Soil preparation: The soil in the greenhouse should have good soil texture and drainage, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5, and low salt and nutrient levels. The soil must be disinfected before planting and disinfected with 40% formalin (in the same way as lily).
(2) Bulb treatment: One method is to carefully remove the brown outer skin wrapped on the root and sterilize it before planting (the bulb sterilization method is the same as the lily ball). Removing the skin can reduce the damage to the root caused by the bulb disinfection residual liquid, promote the uniform growth of the root system, make the whole tulip grow well, and shorten the cultivation period in the greenhouse. Another method is to plant the seeds directly without removing the brown skin.
(3) Depth of colonization: If bulbs are removed from the epidermis, the microscopic dew on the top of the bulb is preferred; if bulbs are not de-hulled, the top of the sphere is 3-4 centimeters from the soil surface:
(4) Density of planting: 230 to 280 balls/square meter, planting in the autumn, the density should be smaller, planting in winter, the density should be larger. According to different breeds, bulb size and planting time. Generally large double-branched late flower type, Darwin hybrid type and other varieties, the density is less: Early flower type, can be a bit dense.
(5) Management after planting:
a. Temperature: In the first two weeks after ball colonization at 5°C, it is the rooting stage. The soil temperature should be maintained at 9°C to 12°C. Over 12°C will cause blind flowers and reduce the flowering rate. After planting, the surface of the soil is covered with rice straw or straw, which can prevent sun from directly hitting the soil and reduce soil temperature and can also play a role in moisturizing. If the soil temperature is too high, the ground can be poured with cold water and covered with straw. After two weeks, the temperature in the greenhouse can gradually increase to 15°C. After 3 to 4 weeks, the temperature can rise and maintain 17°C.
b. Humidity: Water must be poured before planting to ensure that the soil is moist during planting. Water once after planting so that the bulb is in full contact with the soil to facilitate rooting. After the watering to ensure that the soil is moist, that is, the soil under the hands of the bulbs has just been grouped into standards. Watering is sunny in the morning and drip irrigation is best. During the growth of tulips, the relative humidity must not exceed 80%, preferably less than 70%.
c. Fertilizer: Tulips need a lot of nutrition during the budding and budding stages. Tulips used for cutting flowers are more sensitive to fertilizers. If there is not enough fertilizer, the stems and leaves will grow weak and the stems will be weak. After the bulb is well rooted, it is advisable to apply some nitrogen fertilizer. Apply 2 kg of calcium nitrate per 100 square meters for 3 times, once every two weeks. The calcium ions in calcium nitrate also prevent the tulip from tripping. When the bulb germination to the sprout emergence of 2? 3cm high, you can use 20? 8? 20 seasons with high potassium nitrate fertilizer, and 28? 14? 14 high nitrogen fertilizer. When the buds are formed, apply a high-potassium nitrate fertilizer for the four seasons to facilitate the flowering of the tulip. At this time, the stems and leaves are very luxuriant. Do not damage the stems and leaves during the fertilization operation, and the fertilizer solution must contaminate the leaves.
d. Light: In the cultivation, the light is very important. The sufficient sunlight makes the leaves hypertrophy, the stems are stout and the flowers are bright, but the light is too strong, so that the flowering period is shortened and the flower color is faded prematurely. On the contrary, when the winter is continuous rain or snow, it will Affect the normal photosynthesis, stem and leaf color is also lighter, slender and soft flower stems, sometimes sagging or bent, directly affect the quality of cut flowers, need to add supplementary lighting, which is good for the morning in the city of tulips.
e. The promotion of flowering can be treated with gibberellin and light. Gibberellin treatment in the middle of November when the plant height of 7? l0cm, the gibberellin (0.5? 1.0 ml) was instilled into the sheath, 7-10 days after the second treatment, l? 2 days before the injection of drug control Water, so that there is no water droplets in the leaves, so that treatment can be 10-15 days ahead of flowering, gibberellin treatment combined with extended light treatment, the better.
3. Box-type cultivation of tulips in the greenhouse at 9°C
Tulip bulbs at 9°C: After harvesting, the tulip bulbs are treated with high temperature for a period of time, then treated at 9°C for 13-20 weeks (the last 6-8 weeks of cold treatment are performed in the rooting chamber), and after the cold treatment is finished It moves into the greenhouse and can bloom within 25 days. Different varieties of 9 °C treatment time is different with different flowering time, not all bulbs are suitable for 9 °C treatment.
(1) Planting box and soil preparation: The cultivation of tulips at 9°C requires that the depth of the planting box be at least 10cm. The bottom plate of the box should have a suitable number of ventilation holes. When the box and the box are piled together, at least two layers are required. There is a 7 cm gap. There is no uniform requirement for the size of the planting box. At present, it is usually a plastic turnover box when using imported bulbs. The soil should be loose and breathable sandy loam soil. It is recommended to use 1/3 of the soil and 2/3 coarse sand: the tulip is not salt tolerant, and the total soil salinity (ec) should be less than 1.5ms/cm. The planted soil should be at a low nutrient level.
(2) Planting method: First put 10 cm of planting soil into the planting box, and then gently press the tulip bulbs into the planting soil so that the bulbs can be implanted into the soil stably. The 40cm*60cm planting box can grow 80 to 100 balls. Then cover the top of the ball and the tip of the ball slightly out of the soil. Then water the soil inside the tank thoroughly, including the corner soil. The standard of water is: When the soil is kneaded together, water will appear but it will not drip.
(3) Rooting room management: Tulips were planted at 9°C and transplanted into the rooting room for 8 to 10 weeks of rooting. Rooting room temperature should be maintained at about 9 °C, can not seal light. Potted plants require a rooting period of more than 6 weeks, and cut flowers need a rooting period of more than 8 weeks. Pay attention to keeping the soil moist, and the air humidity is preferably kept at 90?95%; the simple way to maintain the air humidity is to spray water on the ground of the rooting chamber on a regular basis. Pay attention to proper ventilation.
(4) Greenhouse Management:
a. Temperature: The well-rooted tulips are moved to the greenhouse in the evening. The ideal greenhouse temperature is around 18°C. However, in the domestic simple greenhouse, due to the limited conditions of the facilities themselves, the tulips can grow between 5°C and 25°C. But note that the temperature can not be higher than 25 °C, otherwise it will affect the flowering rate and flowering quality. The growth period depends on the temperature of the greenhouse.
b. Humidity: The soil must remain moist. During harvesting, watering is best done after each flowering, preferably in the early morning. The relative humidity must not exceed 80%, preferably less than 70%.
III. Harvesting and Storage of Cut Tulips
After the buds pass through the color, they can start harvesting. The calyx has not yet been developed at the time of harvest. This facilitates storage and transportation. Usually, the whole plant is harvested, including bulbs. After the cut flowers are harvested, they are immediately bunched up and placed in 2 to 5°C water for 30 to 60 minutes. Refrigerate before shipment, keep the relative humidity of the freezer above 90%, keep the temperature at 2-5°C, and refrigerate it for less than 3 days. The tulip cut flowers should be placed in the lower 1/3 of the flower stem. When placed in a box, place it horizontally.
Fourth, common pests and control methods of tulips:
(1) Tulip disease, also known as fire blight and wilt disease, is one of the most common and most harmful diseases in tulip greenhouse cultivation.
Symptoms: Part of the leaf flower suffers from brown spots. The pedicels are perishable after being damaged. When the seedling period is affected, the plant grows into a curve and finally wither and die. When the bulb is victimized, the entire tulip is dwarfed and becomes pale yellow, the flowers wither, the outer scales of the stem base and bulb decay, and many black or dark brown sclerotia are produced.
Prevention: Check the bulb carefully before planting, remove the affected bulb, do a good job of disinfection, wash the residual solution on the bulb, dry it before planting, and spray the germicidal solution for prevention and treatment at the time of onset.
(2) Tulip base rot
Symptoms: Leaves yellow, wilting, withered when severe death. The roots of the damaged bulbs were few, and the base was rot. The bulbs that were invaded during storage were turbid white, and the rotted parts of the base hardened and shrunk, sometimes in a round shape.
Prevention: Digging bulbs should be done when the weather is dry and the soil moisture is not high. After digging within 2 days with 0.15%? 0.3% benz bacteria solution soak 15-30 minutes, the water temperature 28 ? 30 ?, after disinfection, blow dry the epidermis, put it to a cool, ventilated place for storage.
(3) Tulip Toxicity Rot Disease
Symptoms: Hazard to the bulb, the victim is extremely perishable, and at the same time extremely vulnerable to other healthy bulbs.
Prevention: Use healthy bulbs and plant them before disinfecting.
(4) Tulip stem rot
Symptoms: often occur in double-valve varieties, which are harmed by Phytophthora infestans, and pedicels near leafhoppers or leaf aphids appear to shrink, wither, droop, and cause flowering.
Prevention: Currently there is no effective prevention and control method, and it is mainly planted in places with good sunlight and good ventilation.
The tulip belongs to the perennial herb of the family Liliaceae and has a bulbous conical shape. Cold-resistant and heat-resistant, the bulb can withstand temperatures below -35°C. The growth temperature was 15-18 °C. The optimum temperature for flower bud differentiation was 17-23 °C. When the wings crossed 35 °C, differentiation was inhibited. Tulips like cool, moist, sunny, sheltered environment: grow well in loose fertile sandy loam soil. Tulips have a wide range of soil acidity and can grow normally in a pH range of 6.0 to 7.8. Tulips are bulbs that take a certain amount of time to cool before they bloom. Its flowers are open during the day when the sunshine is strong and closed at night, and the flowers are closed when cloudy.
Second, the cultivation of tulips
1, tulip conventional open cultivation
(1) Soil preparation: Choose sheltered, sunny, loose soil and fertile areas for planting. Tulip bogey heavy soil. Before planting, plow the land 35-40 cm. At the same time, disinfect the soil (using 40% formalin, the method is the same with lily) and apply 2000-3000 kg of organic fertilizer to improve soil. The pH of the soil is between 6.5 and 7.5.
(2) Colonization: Northern China is generally planted from late September to October. Northeast and northwest temperatures dropped earlier. Colonization should be appropriately established in advance. In North China, it may be later. The time for colonization in Beijing is generally in the middle or late October. The colonization is too early, the climate is warm, and the leafy clumps are grown. Overwintering needs to be covered to avoid freezing. The colonization is too late and the rooting is not good, which will affect the growth in the coming year. The planting depth is about 3 to 5cm, that is, there are 3~5cm topsoil on the top of the ball, and the top buds are upright.
(3) Management after planting: Water should be poured before planting to ensure soil moisture during planting. Immediately after planting, watering once again will not only reduce the soil temperature, but also increase the soil moisture and promote the rooting of the tulip bulb base. After the rooting, the bulb base has a strong root system, and can absorb the water and nutrients in the soil to maintain the aboveground leaf stalks. The normal growth. Before winter, you must pour antifreeze water. After the young leaves are unearthed in the coming spring, water should be promptly kept to keep the soil moist. In winter, it is generally not necessary to water, and the remaining time is based on the fact that the soil remains moist. The application of a thin liquid fertilizer to the leaves during the period of rapid growth and early bud emergence can make the flower colorful.
2. Cultivation of Tulips in the Greenhouse at 5°C Promotes Cultivation
Tulip bulbs at 5°C: After harvesting, the tulip bulbs were subjected to high temperature treatment for a period of time, and then treated at 5°C for 8 to 12 weeks. Tulip bulbs treated at 5°C were allowed to bloom in the greenhouse for 45 to 60 days. However, not all tulip bulbs are suitable for 5 °C treatment. Therefore, before ordering bulbs, be sure to check the company catalog.
(1) Soil preparation: The soil in the greenhouse should have good soil texture and drainage, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5, and low salt and nutrient levels. The soil must be disinfected before planting and disinfected with 40% formalin (in the same way as lily).
(2) Bulb treatment: One method is to carefully remove the brown outer skin wrapped on the root and sterilize it before planting (the bulb sterilization method is the same as the lily ball). Removing the skin can reduce the damage to the root caused by the bulb disinfection residual liquid, promote the uniform growth of the root system, make the whole tulip grow well, and shorten the cultivation period in the greenhouse. Another method is to plant the seeds directly without removing the brown skin.
(3) Depth of colonization: If bulbs are removed from the epidermis, the microscopic dew on the top of the bulb is preferred; if bulbs are not de-hulled, the top of the sphere is 3-4 centimeters from the soil surface:
(4) Density of planting: 230 to 280 balls/square meter, planting in the autumn, the density should be smaller, planting in winter, the density should be larger. According to different breeds, bulb size and planting time. Generally large double-branched late flower type, Darwin hybrid type and other varieties, the density is less: Early flower type, can be a bit dense.
(5) Management after planting:
a. Temperature: In the first two weeks after ball colonization at 5°C, it is the rooting stage. The soil temperature should be maintained at 9°C to 12°C. Over 12°C will cause blind flowers and reduce the flowering rate. After planting, the surface of the soil is covered with rice straw or straw, which can prevent sun from directly hitting the soil and reduce soil temperature and can also play a role in moisturizing. If the soil temperature is too high, the ground can be poured with cold water and covered with straw. After two weeks, the temperature in the greenhouse can gradually increase to 15°C. After 3 to 4 weeks, the temperature can rise and maintain 17°C.
b. Humidity: Water must be poured before planting to ensure that the soil is moist during planting. Water once after planting so that the bulb is in full contact with the soil to facilitate rooting. After the watering to ensure that the soil is moist, that is, the soil under the hands of the bulbs has just been grouped into standards. Watering is sunny in the morning and drip irrigation is best. During the growth of tulips, the relative humidity must not exceed 80%, preferably less than 70%.
c. Fertilizer: Tulips need a lot of nutrition during the budding and budding stages. Tulips used for cutting flowers are more sensitive to fertilizers. If there is not enough fertilizer, the stems and leaves will grow weak and the stems will be weak. After the bulb is well rooted, it is advisable to apply some nitrogen fertilizer. Apply 2 kg of calcium nitrate per 100 square meters for 3 times, once every two weeks. The calcium ions in calcium nitrate also prevent the tulip from tripping. When the bulb germination to the sprout emergence of 2? 3cm high, you can use 20? 8? 20 seasons with high potassium nitrate fertilizer, and 28? 14? 14 high nitrogen fertilizer. When the buds are formed, apply a high-potassium nitrate fertilizer for the four seasons to facilitate the flowering of the tulip. At this time, the stems and leaves are very luxuriant. Do not damage the stems and leaves during the fertilization operation, and the fertilizer solution must contaminate the leaves.
d. Light: In the cultivation, the light is very important. The sufficient sunlight makes the leaves hypertrophy, the stems are stout and the flowers are bright, but the light is too strong, so that the flowering period is shortened and the flower color is faded prematurely. On the contrary, when the winter is continuous rain or snow, it will Affect the normal photosynthesis, stem and leaf color is also lighter, slender and soft flower stems, sometimes sagging or bent, directly affect the quality of cut flowers, need to add supplementary lighting, which is good for the morning in the city of tulips.
e. The promotion of flowering can be treated with gibberellin and light. Gibberellin treatment in the middle of November when the plant height of 7? l0cm, the gibberellin (0.5? 1.0 ml) was instilled into the sheath, 7-10 days after the second treatment, l? 2 days before the injection of drug control Water, so that there is no water droplets in the leaves, so that treatment can be 10-15 days ahead of flowering, gibberellin treatment combined with extended light treatment, the better.
3. Box-type cultivation of tulips in the greenhouse at 9°C
Tulip bulbs at 9°C: After harvesting, the tulip bulbs are treated with high temperature for a period of time, then treated at 9°C for 13-20 weeks (the last 6-8 weeks of cold treatment are performed in the rooting chamber), and after the cold treatment is finished It moves into the greenhouse and can bloom within 25 days. Different varieties of 9 °C treatment time is different with different flowering time, not all bulbs are suitable for 9 °C treatment.
(1) Planting box and soil preparation: The cultivation of tulips at 9°C requires that the depth of the planting box be at least 10cm. The bottom plate of the box should have a suitable number of ventilation holes. When the box and the box are piled together, at least two layers are required. There is a 7 cm gap. There is no uniform requirement for the size of the planting box. At present, it is usually a plastic turnover box when using imported bulbs. The soil should be loose and breathable sandy loam soil. It is recommended to use 1/3 of the soil and 2/3 coarse sand: the tulip is not salt tolerant, and the total soil salinity (ec) should be less than 1.5ms/cm. The planted soil should be at a low nutrient level.
(2) Planting method: First put 10 cm of planting soil into the planting box, and then gently press the tulip bulbs into the planting soil so that the bulbs can be implanted into the soil stably. The 40cm*60cm planting box can grow 80 to 100 balls. Then cover the top of the ball and the tip of the ball slightly out of the soil. Then water the soil inside the tank thoroughly, including the corner soil. The standard of water is: When the soil is kneaded together, water will appear but it will not drip.
(3) Rooting room management: Tulips were planted at 9°C and transplanted into the rooting room for 8 to 10 weeks of rooting. Rooting room temperature should be maintained at about 9 °C, can not seal light. Potted plants require a rooting period of more than 6 weeks, and cut flowers need a rooting period of more than 8 weeks. Pay attention to keeping the soil moist, and the air humidity is preferably kept at 90?95%; the simple way to maintain the air humidity is to spray water on the ground of the rooting chamber on a regular basis. Pay attention to proper ventilation.
(4) Greenhouse Management:
a. Temperature: The well-rooted tulips are moved to the greenhouse in the evening. The ideal greenhouse temperature is around 18°C. However, in the domestic simple greenhouse, due to the limited conditions of the facilities themselves, the tulips can grow between 5°C and 25°C. But note that the temperature can not be higher than 25 °C, otherwise it will affect the flowering rate and flowering quality. The growth period depends on the temperature of the greenhouse.
b. Humidity: The soil must remain moist. During harvesting, watering is best done after each flowering, preferably in the early morning. The relative humidity must not exceed 80%, preferably less than 70%.
III. Harvesting and Storage of Cut Tulips
After the buds pass through the color, they can start harvesting. The calyx has not yet been developed at the time of harvest. This facilitates storage and transportation. Usually, the whole plant is harvested, including bulbs. After the cut flowers are harvested, they are immediately bunched up and placed in 2 to 5°C water for 30 to 60 minutes. Refrigerate before shipment, keep the relative humidity of the freezer above 90%, keep the temperature at 2-5°C, and refrigerate it for less than 3 days. The tulip cut flowers should be placed in the lower 1/3 of the flower stem. When placed in a box, place it horizontally.
Fourth, common pests and control methods of tulips:
(1) Tulip disease, also known as fire blight and wilt disease, is one of the most common and most harmful diseases in tulip greenhouse cultivation.
Symptoms: Part of the leaf flower suffers from brown spots. The pedicels are perishable after being damaged. When the seedling period is affected, the plant grows into a curve and finally wither and die. When the bulb is victimized, the entire tulip is dwarfed and becomes pale yellow, the flowers wither, the outer scales of the stem base and bulb decay, and many black or dark brown sclerotia are produced.
Prevention: Check the bulb carefully before planting, remove the affected bulb, do a good job of disinfection, wash the residual solution on the bulb, dry it before planting, and spray the germicidal solution for prevention and treatment at the time of onset.
(2) Tulip base rot
Symptoms: Leaves yellow, wilting, withered when severe death. The roots of the damaged bulbs were few, and the base was rot. The bulbs that were invaded during storage were turbid white, and the rotted parts of the base hardened and shrunk, sometimes in a round shape.
Prevention: Digging bulbs should be done when the weather is dry and the soil moisture is not high. After digging within 2 days with 0.15%? 0.3% benz bacteria solution soak 15-30 minutes, the water temperature 28 ? 30 ?, after disinfection, blow dry the epidermis, put it to a cool, ventilated place for storage.
(3) Tulip Toxicity Rot Disease
Symptoms: Hazard to the bulb, the victim is extremely perishable, and at the same time extremely vulnerable to other healthy bulbs.
Prevention: Use healthy bulbs and plant them before disinfecting.
(4) Tulip stem rot
Symptoms: often occur in double-valve varieties, which are harmed by Phytophthora infestans, and pedicels near leafhoppers or leaf aphids appear to shrink, wither, droop, and cause flowering.
Prevention: Currently there is no effective prevention and control method, and it is mainly planted in places with good sunlight and good ventilation.
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